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aconcagua 2004 Partly a desire towards completing the 7 summits and partly training for Everest. I intended to reach the summit by taking the False Polish Traverse route and then by the Polish Glacier. Neither of these happened unfortunately as I got a stomach infection at Camp 2 and turned round after 1 hour on summit day. Day 1-2. Fly overnight London to Buenos Aires, transfer to the domestic airport and continue on to Mendoza. Having had time to settle into your hotel you will complete your permit formalities. Hotel, Mendoza
Day 3. The following morning you travel overland up into the mountains and to the dusty town of Puente del Inca (2,720m) a drive of about four hours. The town is famous for its natural mineral bridge from which it took its name. Here you organise your loads and mules for the trip. Hostel, Punta del Inca.
Day 4. The trek into base camp at Plaza Argentina starts today with a short drive to Punta. Mules will carry all of your gear so you can enjoy the walk without heavy loads. The walk on the first day is reasonably easy although very hot and dusty and takes you through green desert valley scenery enclosed between the steep mountains of the Andes. Trekking up the west side of the Rio de las Vacas to your camp at Pampa de Lenas (2700m) is approximately 5 hours. The Park Ranger will examine the permits and issue rubbish bags, which will be checked again at the end of the expedition to ensure all garbage is removed from the mountain. Camp, Pampa de Lenas. Day 5. In the past the day would normally have started with a cold river crossing of the Rio de las Vacas but now a bridge is available. You then continue trekking up the Rio de las Vacas to our camp at Casa de Piedra (3200m), a journey of about 6 hours. From here you will get superb evening views of Aconcagua. Camp, Casa de Piedra.
Day 6. We start the day with a river crossing to enter the Relinchos valley, initially a steep narrow canyon. It may be necessary to cross the stream a few times before coming out into the much broader hanging valley and the Base Camp at Plaza Argentinas (4200m). The campsite will be in the moraine that provides a convenient windbreak and good views of the route ahead. Camp, Plaza Argentinas.
Day 7. Rest day, acclimatisation and preparations for the climb. Camp, Plaza Argentinas. Day 8. Today will be the start of a number of carries to Camp 1 (4800m), loads will be kept light but the journeys will be frequent to aid the process of acclimatisation. The route to Camp 1 is easy, however the altitude will make it feel much steeper. You will return to Base Camp to aid rest. Climbing high and sleeping low is essential for acclimatisation in these early stages, you will feel much stronger in the longer term. Camp, Plaza Argentinas.
Day 9. A second day of movement to Camp 1. You will again return to Base Camp to sleep and rest. Camp, Plaza Argentinas. Day 10. Move to Camp 1. Camp 1.
Day 11. Rest day and acclimatisation. Camp 1. Day 12. Carry to Camp 2 (5900m). The route to Camp two is a little steeper and generally takes around 5 hours. Return to Camp 1 for overnight. Camp 1 Day 13. Climb to Camp 2 situated on a platform just below the Polish Glacier from where you can attempt either the normal route or the Polish Glacier route. Camp overnight with the spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. Camp 2.
Day 14. Rest day at Camp 2 to acclimatise and prepare for our summit bid. Camp 2 Summit Days 15-18: The team has four days in which to reach the summit leaving spare time in case of bad weather, however the summit will be attempted on the first day of good weather. Members are welcome to attempt both routes given good weather, adequate energy and appropriate experience! Camp 2 Normal Route: A diagonal traverse is made up and to the right of the camp joining the normal route at 6200m at a point beneath the now-ruined Independencia hut. After a long and steady traverse from where the ground slopes dramatically all the way down to the large settlement of colourful tents which form the ‘normal route’ Base Camp, you enter the ‘Canaletta’, a large gully leading down from the summit ridge, which gives the most strenuous walking. A good snow coverage provides a better grip for crampons but if warm weather has melted this then the rocky terrain makes for more difficult footing – a case of ‘one step up and two steps down’. From here the group follows the summit ridge with its superb views of the south face for about 30 minutes until the last few steep steps leading onto the summit. A long day but worth the effort for some stupendous 360 degree views and the pleasure of sitting on the highest peak in the Southern hemisphere. Polish Glacier: The most common route is now the Polish Glacier direct, almost directly up the right hand side of the glacier. The angle varies from 45 to 50 degrees for a short stretch at 6500m and then decreases dramatically. The upper slopes lead to the crest of the East Ridge of Aconcagua. Follow the ridge to the summit Day 19. Return to base camp for celebrations, food and wine. Camp, Plaza Argentinas. Day 20. Rest day and packing. Camp, Plaza Argentinas. Day 21. Return trek. Camp, Pampa de Lenas
Day 22. Return trek, transfer to Mendoza and finally an overnight in a hotel! Hotel, Mendoza. Day 23-24: Fly to Buenos Aires and connect on to London Day 24. Arrive UK Home
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